The last weekend in October was surprisingly mild, difficult to envisage now, amidst our early winter snows. Taking advantage of a bright sky, barely skimmed by a few high-flying wisps of cloud, we drove across the bridge spanning the Tay and headed south for the charming streets of St Andrews. We didn’t stop there, however, but took the coast road south to the East Neuk of Fife with its string of ancient fishing ports: Upper and Lower Largo, Cellardyke, St Monans, Anstruther, Crail, Pittenweem. The names alone form a kind of music. Lower Largo was the birthplace of Alexander Selkirk, whose adventures formed the inspiration for Robinson Crusoe, and his statue stands above the doorway of the house on the site of his home. Anstruther houses the museum dedicated to the history of fishing on the northeast coast of Scotland, a cruel history, a maker of widows and orphans.